Some weird forum software...I searched for this thread I'd created last night and couldn't find it. Made a new thread and after I posted it, this one shows up in "related" stuff. Sheesh.
ProBrake levers installed
Thanks for selling off the levers GusDuc.
Didn't take enough pics for a tutorial and frankly its pretty straightforward anyway, but I'll include some commentary with pics below.
Step one: measure the "free play" on your clutch lever before removal! The ProBrake levers are easily adjustable for free play and I tried to match the factory lever. I tinkered and you can definitely get too much free play for the clutch to not be fully engaged with the lever pulled all the way to the handlebar.
When removing the capscrew that holds the plastic handguards on, I noticed that the hole in the lever pivot is much bigger than the capscrew. The top side has a bushing that stays with the handguard, but the bottom has a simple flat washer (nut and washer removed here so you can see the huge clearance).
![Sky Motor vehicle Gas Electric blue Tree]()
I happened to remember having a couple of these spacers from some Speed Triple bodywork still hanging around and they fit nicely to support the bottom of the capscrew. (installed pic several below)
![Finger Thumb Nail Metal Fashion accessory]()
Anyway, you'll need a 5mm allen/hex key for that capscrew and a 10mm for the nut. Once you get that out of the way you'll need a 19mm socket for the stamped steel nut that holds the pivot in the clutch and brake perches. I assume they used the thin stamped steel so someone wouldn't over tighten and crush the perch.
Here's the top of the pivot, held from rotating by the perch itself. Remove the nut and the pivot pushes straight up and out of the perch AND the clutch switch, remove old lever, add some grease to the pivot (I had moly on hand) and insert new lever while pushing the pivot through it and the clutch switch bracket.
Note what looks like a piece of wire in the pic below, this is what ProBrake added as a tensioning device for the plunger/free play adjustment. It basically holds spring tension on the adjuster screw, pretty smart idea.
![Motor vehicle Automotive tire Light Automotive lighting Bicycle part]()
Reinstall the nut and torque it to whatever they say it should be....I just used a palm ratchet.
![Tire Bicycle tire Motorcycle Automotive tire Automotive lighting]()
Here it is assembled from the bottom, looks like a regular flat washer but the collar fits inside the pivot. Maybe you can also see the clutch switch bracket has an arm that forces it to sit in just the right place.
![Hood Motor vehicle Sky Automotive tire Propeller]()
Brake side is pretty much the same but has a different switch set up for the brake light, it has a tiny alignment peg you have to keep in a hole.
I know clearance has been an issue for some brands of levers, no such problem here. It's close but I can move the adjustment screw in and out and never hit anything, sorry for the poor angle of the pic.
![Automotive tire White Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Light]()
Took a test ride and made sure clutch engaged/disengaged fully, etc. Works great and definitely more adjustment of the levers!
Didn't take enough pics for a tutorial and frankly its pretty straightforward anyway, but I'll include some commentary with pics below.
Step one: measure the "free play" on your clutch lever before removal! The ProBrake levers are easily adjustable for free play and I tried to match the factory lever. I tinkered and you can definitely get too much free play for the clutch to not be fully engaged with the lever pulled all the way to the handlebar.
When removing the capscrew that holds the plastic handguards on, I noticed that the hole in the lever pivot is much bigger than the capscrew. The top side has a bushing that stays with the handguard, but the bottom has a simple flat washer (nut and washer removed here so you can see the huge clearance).
I happened to remember having a couple of these spacers from some Speed Triple bodywork still hanging around and they fit nicely to support the bottom of the capscrew. (installed pic several below)
Anyway, you'll need a 5mm allen/hex key for that capscrew and a 10mm for the nut. Once you get that out of the way you'll need a 19mm socket for the stamped steel nut that holds the pivot in the clutch and brake perches. I assume they used the thin stamped steel so someone wouldn't over tighten and crush the perch.
Here's the top of the pivot, held from rotating by the perch itself. Remove the nut and the pivot pushes straight up and out of the perch AND the clutch switch, remove old lever, add some grease to the pivot (I had moly on hand) and insert new lever while pushing the pivot through it and the clutch switch bracket.
Note what looks like a piece of wire in the pic below, this is what ProBrake added as a tensioning device for the plunger/free play adjustment. It basically holds spring tension on the adjuster screw, pretty smart idea.
Reinstall the nut and torque it to whatever they say it should be....I just used a palm ratchet.
Here it is assembled from the bottom, looks like a regular flat washer but the collar fits inside the pivot. Maybe you can also see the clutch switch bracket has an arm that forces it to sit in just the right place.
Brake side is pretty much the same but has a different switch set up for the brake light, it has a tiny alignment peg you have to keep in a hole.
I know clearance has been an issue for some brands of levers, no such problem here. It's close but I can move the adjustment screw in and out and never hit anything, sorry for the poor angle of the pic.
Took a test ride and made sure clutch engaged/disengaged fully, etc. Works great and definitely more adjustment of the levers!
